The Last Leg –
Like much of the rest of the trip, this last leg was still a fast-paced, whirlwind experience. It just had some down time for soaking at “the spa” as well. More to come on that, but there is a reason for the quotations. This portion, although the shortest, was still just as fully packed. To start, we had a few days in onsens of Hakone. It would end with a day trip to Nagoya, before finally completing our loop back to Osaka.
Day 1-2: Hakone –
Luke and I had battled it out enough on daily step count and whose smart watch or iPhone was correct. Regardless of who was right, we did agree the number was high. Built into the itinerary was some time to rest our feet and retire the sneakers. It was finally time to relax in the mountainy, onsen filled, spa-resort town of Hakone. (But first, one more ride on the Shinkansen!)
Now to explain those earlier quotations. The resort “spa” was the actually the Japanese onsen (communal bath) and that struck fear in our hearts. Hakone is known for its abundant hot springs, that have been a staple of Japanese relaxation for centuries. The area boasts a number of high-quality ryokan (traditional inns) that offer private or public baths with mineral-rich waters. Bathing in these natural hot springs is believed to have therapeutic effects, ranging from improved circulation to stress relief. Once you can get past the ‘getting naked with others’ part. We’ve been to European beaches before, but this was a mandated no bathing suit zone.
For obvious reasons, there were no cameras in the bath house. I’m just borrowing this one from the hotel’s web page because you need to know the scenery. The men and the women are in separate areas, and Luke and Jake would not participate. So Chris and I made our way down in our robes and slippers together and parted at the tea stand. From there, what happens in the bath house, stays in the bath house. You can have this preview…. there was no robe that would fit Chris’s shoulders.
The ryokan was traditional in so many ways, not just naked bathing with new friends. We were served a traditional kaiseki breakfast and dinner each day of the stay. Through the multiple courses, we did not have know quite what we were eating. The presentation and and preparation though, that went into these each course was like nothing we had ever experienced before.
More Mentions of Bathing…
The onsen/communal bath and nine course dinner of surprises definitely intimidated the the boys. I kept the surprises rolling and planned a day of forest bathing with our guide Aki the next day. After their strong (and delightful to watch) protest about having to publicly bathe in public I broke the news just laughing. Forest bathing is not actually bathing in the forest. I tried to explain it was mindful and stress free hiking. Hiking designed to disconnect from the busy, and really embrace the colors and sounds of nature. Hiking that makes you turn your phone off. Given their disposition on hiking already, they might have preferred bathing.
In Japan, Shinrin-yoku is considered a therapeutic practice that reduces stress, boosts the immune system, and helps clear mental clutter. Personally, it was a chance to escape the fast pace of my bonkers itinerary. It was a reminder to refocus on being in the moment. Nature was like a reset button. Our guide, Aki took us to the Old Tokaido Road, a historic path that once connected Tokyo and Kyoto. It is lined with beautiful cedar trees and cobbled roads. It was a perfect afternoon walking along this ancient road wandering beneath the towering trees, breathing in the fresh air while connecting with a piece of Japanese history.
Reliving Lake Days – Lake Ashi
All that ‘bathing’ and we ironically ended our tour at Lake Ashi. What we didn’t know, was Lake Ashi was only an apparition of a swimmable body of water. Despite the very hot weather, no one was swimming. We heard it was to cold. We heard it was illegal and even heard it was too volcanic and could cause a heart attack. To this day we never figured out why there was no swimming in this lake. Instead we took a ferry around the lake. Due to line size it was not the pirate ships that you’ll find on Google. Same beautiful views though – and an ice cream and beer vendor, and plenty of fun seating options.
Day 3: Nagoya –
After a what would be the most relaxing part of the trip began the mad dash back to Osaka. Kansai Airport would be the departure point. But one more detour of an excursion on our way. Of course we had to stop for the Nagoya Grand Sumo Tournament.
First, Pre-Story Background
I had ordered tickets on Stub Hub for this event months before we left, because it seemed easy. The tickets were not sent electronically, but I did get an email saying I would get them through the mail. No seller info though. This email also said they wouldn’t be delivered to my house until after we left for Japan. I really thought it was quick, lost money. But Japanese efficiency should never be underestimated. Sure enough, two weeks after ordering, a small package from Japan had arrived at my house. It was four tickets from 7-11 and characters I could not read. Even then, I doubted the process.
Fast Forward, back to Nagoya
Paper tickets in tow, we made the trek to Nagoya. However, Nagoya is smack dab in between Hakone and Osaka. Not close enough to either to hold our luggage at the hotel. And not enough time to send luggage ahead of time. So we did show up in Nagoya with four suitcases, four backpacks and some souvenirs in hand. Fortunately, we did find exactly two lockers in the Nagoya train station and crossed our fingers everything would fit. And that we would some how find these lockers again.
What makes the Nagoya tournament particularly special is the atmosphere. It is one of the major six tournaments of the year. Aichi Gymnasium, where it was held, has a cozy, yet electrifying environment. Due to its smaller size fans to get closer to the action and experience the sport in a way that feels up close and intense compared to those held in Osaka or Tokyo. Our 7-11 tickets were literally the worst in the place, but we were still close enough to see everything. Also our chairs had seat backs, so that was a win. Stadium peanuts was also a box of edamame.
Each match begins with a series of rituals, including the famous salt-throwing ceremony, believed to purify the ring and ward off evil spirits. The rikishi also engage in symbolic stomping, squatting, and other actions that have been part of the sport for centuries.There was even a yokozuna competing in the days events! I’ve watched many sumo wrestling matches at 3am with my grandmother on the TV. It’s really pleasant during day time hours!
We were able to watch for a a few hours before hopping the train to make it to our dinner reservations in Osaka. We let Jake pick this one out…
Osaka
Enough suspense. Most boys pick steak. Jake asked us to dress nicely for the affair. My nerves were wrecked wondering what this would be. What happened next is why we keep Jake around. We went a restaurant and caught our own dinner. We were given fishing poles, seated on boat type structure, inside a building, and fish just roaming around us. Several facts that should be known about this –
- The fish were surprisingly big.
- After catching your fish, you select how it was prepared – fried, grilled, sushi. Combo was the select choice between the boys
- A gong was hit every time someone in the restaurant caught a fish.
Tenjin Matsuri
Let the festivals continue. We had already participated in several days of activities during the Gion Matsuri in Kyoto. However, this time we would only be there to witness the first day of the Tenjin Matsuri. We got to experience the early preparations and musical rituals at the Tenmangu shrine. The festival is a stunning display of traditional Japanese culture, blending religious rituals with lively processions. So many people parading through the streets and markets with mikoshi (portable shrines). Bummed to have missed it, the second day is said to be even more dramatic, featuring a breathtaking river procession. Boats adorned with lanterns participants dressed in historic attire sail along the Okawa River. It is such a spectacle against the summer night sky.
Farewell Japan
And just like that, all good things must come to an end. Kind of like this series of posts on our trip to Japan just did. (Kyoto, Tokyo). After a last day of vivid festivities, we boarded the Hello Kitty Express line back to the Osaka Airport. I did find it easier to sleep on trip home. The seven hour layover in Vancouver would get the best of us though!
This farewell just means it’s time to plan another, so I can write the sequel. Luke and Jake, you’ll thank me for writing these memories down for you one day. It’s marginally more organized and less overwhelming than my Amazon photo drive.
File: Onsens of Hakone
