Traveling By Bullet Train into Tokyo:

A Three Day Itinerary

We trained what felt like every ounce of Kyoto. We thought we had become masters of the Japanese train system by day six. I had come a long way since the train meltdown in Osaka. We made JR Pass day trips to Arashiyama and Nara. But holy Shinkansen, we were not the masters we believed ourselves to be traveling into Tokyo.

Day 1: En Route to Street Food

Shinjuku Station and Snacks

Taking the bullet train to Tokyo is more than just a means of transportation. It is the ultimate Japanese travel experience. I wavered a lot with buying the JR pass for the length of our trip. I worried it wasn’t cost effective. In theory, having every detail planned out we it would have been cheaper to buy all the individual tickets required. In execution, the Japanese rail system is a much better time keeper than the Thomas family. I lost count of how many extra tickets we would have needed for missed trains. The reduced level of stress far outweighed the potential cost savings at this point. But also, the speed, comfort, and breathtaking views made the Shinkansen so worth it as we traveled to one of the world’s most vibrant cities.

To say Tokyo is huge, is an understatement. It is a population of around 37 million people making it the largest city in the world. To think I wouldn’t try to cover it all would be an equal injustice. I know in three days we couldn’t actually do it all, but we won’t say we it was for a lack of effort! We stayed in the Shinjuku area. The intent was to be centrally located in the city with easy access to trains and metro lines. We weren’t wrong in our assumptions, however, it often still took us 30 minutes reach different districts within the city.

*Shinjuku Station is quite literally the busiest station in the world with 3.5 million passengers per day going through. It felt like we met all of them walking through that station looking for our particular platform and exit.

Throughout the course of the whole trip we were pretty great at planning our arrivals right around meal time. Even when we are not Japan, the boys love ramen. And the endless search to feed teenage boys would begin our walking segment for the day. We were pretty set on finding a particular ramen shop within the Shinjuku district. We dropped our bags off and quickly got on our way to discover this area of Tokyo (and get ramen). All in one, you get a glimpse of an eclectic mix of modern, tradition, and everything in between. From towering skyscrapers to hidden temples, Shinjuku is a microcosm of the city itself. And after a forty minute walk/hunt, we found the ramen shop that Google said was a must. We walked in, and due to the crowd size determined it was not actually going to be the Thomas ‘must’.

Feeling a little defeated and very hungry, we mustered on. And then, there it was. A super small and hidden ramen shop without a name. Definitely not the one we were avidly hunting for around “town”. This nameless ramen shop though would unanimously become everyone’s favorite of the entire trip. Everything about it was so nondescript, it is likely never to be found again. We don’t even know what we ordered. An Obachon decided our whole lunch for us when the menu had no pictures and no English options.

Tourist Stop: Meiji Shrine

Feeling sustained, the day wouldn’t be complete if there wasn’t a temple viewing and more walking somewhere in there. Meiji Shrine (Meiji Jingu) is a prominent Shinto shrine located in Shibuya, Tokyo, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Established in 1920, it honors the Emperor who played a crucial role in Japan’s modernization. Kyoto was where we learned about the more ancient history of Japan. Tokyo was where we would learn the Japanese history of today. So just another short thirty minute walk through the city. (The JR pass definitely became worth it over this part of the trip!)

* The walk up to the shrine itself through the trees and gates were so tranquil. It was hard to believe that just outside these gates was the largest city on Earth.

If you couldn’t tell, the ramen stall had us all sorts of excited. It would be the inspiration to search for street food for dinner that night as well. We made our way to Omoide Yokocho (“Memory Alley”). It is a narrow alley filled with tiny izakayas (Japanese pubs) serving yakitori and other delights. The atmosphere is charmingly nostalgic. Although the street itself is tight and crowded each restaurant could really only hold no more than ten guests. The smokiness from the non-stop grilling and conversations between with the cooks and other guests made for such an intimate but low-key dinner.

Day 2: Rickshaws, Sumo and Mayhem

Of all the tours planned, this day had Chris the most nervous. We’ve jumped off waterfalls, ziplined jungles, and snowmobiled the mountains. It would be the rickshaw ride through Asakusa that he would stop and question my trip planning abilities. And I say this because Chris is about the most courteous person I know. So as a taller and larger person, he was worried about making strangers have to wheel him around town. Kyu and Shu were up for the challenge. We opted for the hour version which was just about perfect. They brought us to some of the more popular sights in area and then a temple dedicated to cats. In there though, they taught us much about Japanese culture and some historical facts. They dropped us off near some shops by the Kaminarimon Gate. A stroll through the temple and some shops, this would be the end of just lazily perusing for the rest of this day.

A Day for the Boys

The best way to end a nice and relaxing ride on a rickshaw is to run through the streets of Tokyo to make your pre-arranged lunchtime with some sumo wrestlers. Or not. But that is what we did. Run by former sumo wrestlers, there was lunch and a demo, and then a time to test your own sumo skills. It was definitely an experience for tourists, but it was hilarious. I don’t if I laughed more watching the boys in their sumo suits or trying it myself.

We had picked up a pocket wifi device when we arrived in Osaka Airport. Mostly, it was there to ensure we would always have access to the all the important apps. Google Maps, Google Translate, my dwindling checking account. I made it the whole two weeks without handing over the password to the boys. Two weeks of minimal screen watching and zero Fortnite, made for two very screen itchy kids. The electric, arcade district of Akihabara scratched that itch. It was a way to lighten your backpack by spending all your yen coins real quick too. We landed in an arcade that was six stories tall. It was like the stairway to heaven for the boys. While they mainly stuck with the modern car chase games on level four Chris and I went old school. We found a middle ground with family Mario Kart. And when all the coins were finally gone, we all sat in amazement watching the Dance, Dance, Revolution players. High school Alyssa was so envious of their moves.

Yes, one day and all that….

Day 3: More Markets and Meals

Tsukiji Outer Market and Sushi Class

Walking through the narrow lanes of Tsukiji Outer Market is a feast for the senses. The air is filled with the enticing aromas of grilled seafood, savory street foods, and sweet delicacies. With over 400 shops and stalls, you can find everything from fresh sushi to traditional Japanese snacks. Outside, in the narrow walkways, we saw the most perfect looking fruits, teas and soups. If you haven’t noticed snacks are constant a theme of this family. I did happen to get a bunch of snacks, spices and flavorful pouches to bring home. (I did not think about what goodies can go through TSA on the way out and actually make it home.) There is an inside area as well, where the bulk of the fish and seafood stands are. It’s lively, it’s chaotic, and it’s absolutely delightful! You can feel the energy of the place, and it’s infectious. And so many samples to fill our bellies literally right before going to our afternoon sushi class.

This sushi-making class turned out to be a wonderful bonding experience for us. It was fun, educational, and delicious—everything a family outing should be! Plus, the skills we learned are something we can bring back home. (Future GlobalKidchen post?) Naturally, there was some level of competition to make the prettiest setting – or maybe that was just me.

Shibuya Crossing, Sensoji Temple and Tokyo Skytree

From there we made our way to the famous Shibuya Crossing. After multiple trips through the bustling Shinjuku station, we were ready to face a different type of large crowd. I find the swarms of people and the chaos exciting. People watching is a hobby. My fellow travelers, do not share my sentiment. It felt like stepping into a scene from a movie. The moment the traffic lights turned red, thousands of people surged across the street from every direction. It was like watching a choreographed mob dance. Only, instead of dancers, it was commuters, tourists, and locals all weaving their way through the crowd. To follow up with some shopping and JPOP sampling wasn’t the worst thing to happen either.

I was hellbent on making my way back to a certain art shop I had seen after our rickshaw ride. It is my normal souvenir from any trip to bring home a piece. Given the span of our travels, my living room has become quite ‘eclectically’ decorated. There was a photo that I contemplated and backed out on the day prior. Begrudgingly, I cut afternoon siesta short and hurried everyone back to the Sensoji Temple – only for the shops to be closed when we arrived.

Located in Asakusa, Sensoji Temple is Tokyo’s oldest temple, dating back to 645 AD. It’s dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, and it’s steeped in history and culture. Imagine walking through the same grounds where people have gathered for centuries to pray, reflect, and seek blessings. Taking this trip was such an awesome reminder of how blessed we truly are.

Our last stop on the Tokyo leg of the tour was the Tokyo Skytree at night. At 634 meters, the Skytree is the tallest structure in Japan. The observation decks are something else. We took the elevator up, all a little wide-eyed with excitement. Upon reaching the Tembo Deck, we were treated to a breathtaking panoramic view of the expansive city. Apparently, on a clear day, you can even see Mount Fuji in the distance. Instead we watched a lightning storm coming in over the city which was equally just as impressive.

Next: Bullet Train to Hakone….

Three days goes quick, especially when you’ve been moving so fast and doing so much. After our first days in Kyoto and these three days in Tokyo, our sneakers had been well broken in. After endless stairs and navigating the busy city streets, we had finally reached the restful part of our vacation. Next, we would be making our way to Hakone, Japan. Hakone is a mountain, hot spring retreat area about an hour by train from Tokyo. Nothing like American tourists trying to figure out Japanese onsen (…the public bath house)

Note: Also, there was still hiking and hill climbing, so not entirely restful relaxation.