The Time Capsule: Bologna and Rome
Italy in the fall feels like a deep exhale.
This was a trip in the making for at least five years. When Chris and I got married we honeymooned in Paris and Barcelona. The dreamers in us promised a trip to Europe at least every other year. Fast forward fifteen years and with all the travels we’ve taken, we actually hadn’t returned to Europe. So finally, in February of 2020 we booked that first trip. A family trip to Rome! The kids seemed “old enough” for the flight. It was also our ten year anniversary, and I had recently graduated with my MBA. All the reasons to celebrate and just do it. Ten days to Portugal and Italy. Planes booked. Hotels booked. Itinerary set. One month later, covid outbreak. Womp womp.
While we did deviate from our original itinerary, it’s perfectly fine by me. You can’t go wrong with anywhere in Italy. Our new itinerary included Bologna (1 day), Rome (3 days) and Florence/Tuscan Countryside (3 days). It was a trip rooted in food, history, and shared experiences. This was the kind of trip that left us full in every sense of the word.
What stood out most wasn’t just what we saw, but how we experienced it. Underground tunnels beneath ancient arenas, muddy sneaks from truffle hunting in Tuscany. Flour-dusted hands shaping pasta, and e-biking through the Renaissance streets of Florence. Italy met us exactly where we were—as curious eaters, learners, and a family discovering together. It’s just kind of been our motto.
Bologna in One Day: The Culinary Capital
If Italy had a stomach, it would be Bologna.
With just one quick evening in the city, we leaned fully into its reputation as the heart of Italian food culture. After an overnight flight and long layover in London, we arrived into Bologna at it’s most perfect time. Dinner time. Dinner is not just about the food – we were quick to learn it is an experience. We were definitely hungry and wary from the travels, and 30 minutes fighting with the most impossible door locks. But the comfort food of Bologna was relief and the best introduction to the city. Fresh tagliatelle tangled with ragù—rich, savory, and unapologetically traditional. This wasn’t the kind of meal you rush through. It was the kind where conversation ebbs and everyone at the table understands they’re eating something deeply rooted in place.
Bologna doesn’t shout for your attention— but rather so charming and subtle. Not my normal nature, maybe it was my own jetlag, we let the boys sleep in. The flight in was a little rough, and thought I would let them recover. Also, I’ll take a two hour date anyway I can. But overcoming and rising with the sun, Chris and I took to walk the portico-lined streets. They led us past bakeries perfumed with butter and espresso bars humming with morning ritual. And between bites, we wandered Bologna’s historic center, passing medieval towers and local markets. One day wasn’t enough, but it was enough to understand why Bologna is considered the soul of Italian cooking.
Rome with Family: Ancient History and Everyday Life
Rome doesn’t reveal itself all at once. It unfolds in layers—some visible, some buried, some edible. Over three days, we discovered Rome, the Eternal City, as an open-air museum.
We left Bologna in a flurry. When we got back to the Airbnb, those teenagers I let sleep in a little extra were definitely still sleeping. They were also definitely not packed for the morning train. Scrambling to pack, find a taxi it would be a foreshadowing of times to come. We did make it, and took the high speed rail where everyone fell asleep a little more. We’d get to Rome with what I’ll call a six hour self guided preview of Rome.
We all know Rome wasn’t built in a day. And hard as you try, you can’t walk Rome in a day either – especially when meals take hours! The preview tour did include, the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, more pasta for lunch and a number of churches. We did a pass by of the Trevi Fountain. Queue the tiny violin as the boys had flashbacks to the ‘Temple Tours of Kyoto‘ and those 25,000 step days. Same level of busyness, but way less hot. We finished off the evening with a piano by candlelight concert at an opera house. Truly a unique experience, but not the easiest task when we were still combating the jet lag.
Visiting the Vatican During the Jubilee Year
The next morning, we crossed into Vatican City to visit the Vatican during the year of the Jubilee. As something that happens only every 25 years, it added that much more in reflection and depth to our experience. There was a noticeable sense of purpose in St. Peter’s Square, as pilgrims from around the world moved with intention through the space.
Inside the Vatican Museums, the scale was awe-inspiring. Room after room revealed centuries of faith, art, and storytelling. Culminating in the Sistine Chapel, where even our most talkative moments gave way to quiet. Experiencing that stillness together as a family felt unexpectedly meaningful.
St. Peter’s Basilica invited us to pause. Walking through the rarely opened Holy Doors, the Jubilee themes of renewal and pilgrimage were present. Encouraging reflection rather than spectacle. Leaving the Vatican, we returned to one of Rome’s simplest pleasures—lunch. Over our first pizza of the trip and conversation with my favorites, we processed what we’d seen. We were grounding ourselves in history and faith.
Came for the Food, Stayed for the Views
Would we even be on vacation if Chris didn’t check out the grocery store? Culture comes in all different forms. So after several hours of walls and walls of art, we found a tiny grocery store. What was really probably a stop to refill on water, turned into a meat, cheese and wine stop. To be fair, our Airbnb had amazing views and a balcony. The ‘snacks’ made for an awesome siesta hour while we watched the sunset. But before we stopped to eat again, we had some more ancient history to discover.
Beneath the Dome – Enter the Pantheon
Our Airbnb was just a five minute walk from the Pantheon. We had walked by probably a hundred times by this point. We saw it in all the Rick Steve’s videos we watched before taking this trip. It is a pinnacle of ancient Roman architecture. But without taking the time to enter, there was still so much mystery to this building. Even taking the time to enter, so much mystery still remained.
Visiting the Pantheon as a family is one of those rare travel moments that truly captivated each of us. Stepping inside, the sheer scale of the dome you can’t help but marvel at the building’s 2,000-year-old engineering. After the grandiose scale of the Vatican, the Pantheon seemed manageable without a tour guide. Standing together beneath the famous oculus, watching sunlight stream through the open roof, left us with more questions than answers. And I know everyone was imagining Roman emperors once standing in the very same spot. With its awe-inspiring architecture, the Pantheon offers a perfect mix of history, wonder, and an easy cultural stop to keep us all engaged.
Welp, then it was dinner time once again and quite literally my favorite time of the an Italian day. And an evening out in Trastevere is pure Roman magic. As the sun sets over the cobbled lanes of Trastevere, ivy spills down golden-hued buildings and the scent of garlic and wood-fired pizza drifts through the air. We noticed all the other families too – lingering in lively piazzas. Waiters were weaving between candlelit tables set right on the street. It would be our night to wander without a plan, only following our noses until we found the perfect trattoria. And then we did at Nonnarellas… Between bites of cacio e pepe and sips of the local Lazio wine, the atmosphere felt both vibrant and intimate. Unmistakably Italian, wonderfully unhurried, a community engaged.
After dinner, the neighborhood truly comes alive. Musicians were playing softly near Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. We finished the day with a stroll along the nearby Tiber River with street vendors savoring in the rhythm of Roman nightlife. Trastevere in the evening isn’t just about the food. It’s about slowing down, savoring the moment, and feeling completely immersed in the timeless charm of Rome.
Covering Ground and then the Underground
We were up early again, this time to see the Trevi Fountain and beat the crowds. Teenage Instagram goals accomplished. But it had been probably a whole six hours since we ate last. Definitely time for an Italian Breakfast. Actually, we had our Italian breakfast of cappuccino and cornettos every morning so far. The boys would get their usual hearty egg meal. Good, it was another full day of walking. And it gave me me the perfect opportunity to finally get the maritozzo.
And because we are suckers for a market, and an offbeat souvenir we headed to Campo di Fiori. A little quieter from the hustle of the city, it was a different slice of Roman life. The square fills with a lively market where vendors pile tables high with some of the prettiest fruits and vegetables I’ve ever seen. I bought some spices and a ravioli cutter. The boys picked out some socks and trinkets. Chris got more snacks for happy hour on the balcony. In the center stands the brooding statue of Giordano Bruno, silently watching over the chaos. It’s a great place to wander, snack on something fresh, and pretend you’re the kind of traveler who casually shops for tomatoes in Roman markets—even if you’re really just there for the atmosphere (and maybe another espresso)
Just a short walk away, a visit to Piazza Navona is one of those Rome moments where you slow down, grab a coffee, and let the city do its thing. Built on the ruins of an ancient Roman stadium, the piazza is now all fountains, street artists, and people-watching. The star of the show is the dramatic Fountain of the Four Rivers by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. But most of the fun was watching the street performers and the weird collection of instruments I’ve never seen. A close second was stopping for one espresso while the boys begged for another round of gelato. In Rome, I this counts as cultural enrichment.
One of the most powerful moments was exploring the underground of the Colosseum, where gladiators once waited beneath the arena floor. We couldn’t go to Rome and not see the Colosseum! Nearly 2,000 years old and still stealing the spotlight! This massive amphitheater once hosted gladiator battles, wild animal hunts, and crowds that definitely weren’t there for the snacks. Walking around it, it’s easy to imagine the roar of 50,000 spectators. Mostly because there may have been 50,000 tourists and their yelling tour guides – seemed to add to the experience! Either way, it’s one of those places that somehow manages to be even more impressive in person.
And back above ground, Rome buzzed with its perpetual energy. We continued on our tour through the Roman Forum. As amazing as the walk through the Colosseum was, the amazement continued. So thought out. So intentional. Standing in the middle of it all just made the complexity and magnitude of ancient Rome feel even bigger than I could have imagined.
And then our Roman Folly
Food anchored our days. We shared plates and savored bowls of classic Roman pasta, like cacio e pepe and the unanimous favorite, Amatriciana. It doesn’t take long to learn that eating well in Rome is effortless if you follow the locals. And all that late night gelato (or depending who, cocktails).
Just like that, it was time to leave Rome, and the hustle and bustle of the Eternal City. However, I don’t think Rome was ready for us to leave. Finally coming full circle in my original train story. For the first time ever, we failed to make our train that morning. We called Uber after Uber and wondered why we kept getting declined. No taxi’s to be found. A weirdly quiet morning in the streets. This was a side of Rome we hadn’t seen and were so confused. Finally, someone had let us know the roads had been closed throughout the city for a marathon. There were no cars to be going through the city, and definitely not take us. And then began the last walking (and hardest) tour of Rome – luggage in hand en route to the station!
And there will eventually be a Part II to this love letter – Florence, Tuscany and back to Bologna!
File: An October Love Letter to Italy: Part I, Family Trip to Rome and Bologna
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